Props to compliment your costume: tutorials?!

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

Okay so I've noticed a large group of members here are into cosplaying NARUTO style ;D
well being the queen of seamripp-- COSPLAY I think I'll pitch in and give up some tutorials to help make props to compliment all of your amazing costumes =3

Okay so for my first post (this one) i'm going to be posting an index and from there on will be small written out tutorials... since I ish not allowed to post pictures or the actual tutorials here you'll have to settle for that, gomen nasai!!
I also apologize in advance for my extreme multiple posting, if an admin wants to remove the thread and scold me harshly then please do =3

if you want reference pics then PM me, I am not allowed to post any picture referring to Naruto in any way on these forums =(

I apologize for any spelling/grammatically incorrect n00b-ish mistakes! I'm not perfect, so please dont treat me like I am, I'm only here to help out fellow Naruto fans =) feel free to PM me if a link goes dead or you're confused about anything at all on this thread. Thanks!

if you have any tutorial requests feel free to PM me =3 it doesn't have to just be props, it can be sewing, wig wefting, wig styling, plushie construction, armor, wings... anything cosplay really ^^ alrighty here we go:

INDEX:

- Shuriken/Throwing Stars (page 1, post 2)
- Temari's Fan (page 1, post 3)
- Asuma and Shikamaru's chakra knives (page 1, post 4)
- Zabuza's Sword (page 1, post 5)
- Akatsuki Clouds (page 1, post 6)
- ANBU Arm Guards (page 1, post 7)
- ANBU mask (page 1, post 8)
- ANBU vest (page 1, post 9)
- Deidara's Clay birds (page 1, post 10)
- Dosu Kinuta's sound amplifier (page 1, post 11)
- Naruto shinobi headbands (page 1, post 12)
- Gaara's Gourd (page 1, post 14)
- Haku's bun covers (page 1, post 15)
- Kakashi's face mask (page 2, post 35)
- Kunai pouches (page 2, post 36)
- Ninja scrolls (page 2, post 37)
- Ninja sandals (page 2, post 38)
- Tobi's mask (page 2, post 39)
- Fake Cigarettes (page 2, post 40)
- WIG STYLING: Ahoge (Idiot) Hair (page 3, post 41)
- WIG STYLING: Sakura's bangs! (page 3, post 42)

Coming Soon:
nothing at the moment, check back soon! ^_~

EDIT AND NOTES//
please remember that I spent countless hours and sleepless nights slaving away at my cosplay tutorials, if you use these, please give me (or whoever else made them, I will quote them and give them credit in the post) credit to what I did ^_^ thank you!

and if you ever decide to take pictures of the finished products, I'd love to see them! Though its not neccesary, just a little something to make me feel proud? XD I'm not a very confident person so every bit helps =)

UPDATE 5/19:
currently its 5:00AM and I havent slept in several days *moans* but oh well, I love you guys so I managed to finish up the tutorials I promised =D
I apologize for taking so long, but please feel free to use these as you please, I might go back and add in a bit of pictures to my original tutorials, but probably after I get a good night's rest. ;3
I don't have any new tutorials planned out for you, so I think I'm going to stalk my translator and beg her to send the the raw translations of Dengeki Layers to scan for NARUTO related cosplay tutorials~ I might put up a tutorial for costume patterns? Whadd'ya think? Like chinese dress patterns for genin sakura or maybe a jumpsuit pattern for Rock Lee/Maito Gai, etc. And do you think I could get away with posting basic cosplay tutorials like some wig styling tips or maybe height adjustment or packing, etc.? Anyways I'll post back when I have an actual plan set into place.
Please take care of me! *bows*

MORE EDITS//
my translator sent me these from her Dengeki Layers stash ;3 please read them =)

Spoiler:

Easy Intro to Prop-Making

"I can't make that by myself! That's crazy!" You'd be surprised what you can do if you set your mind to it. You just gotta believe! This set of basic tutorials is designed for you, ye of little faith. Have a look, roll up your sleeves and give it a try. We might make a prop-maker out of you yet.

Design

Quite a lot of props fall under the umbrella of "weapons" or could cause harm to others when constructed or handled carelessly. It's important to remember that props can cross the line into real weapons if certain materials are utilized. You may find your props banned from events or shoots if they're too long, heavy, or sharp. Be sure to know what's allowed at the event where you plan to use your prop and construct it accordingly.

It's equally important to be mindful of those around you when posing with or transporting props. Improper handling of even fake weaponry can cause real injuries. A good question to keep in mind when designing props is this:

"If I hit someone with this ~ will it hurt them?"

Motivation

There are quite a few templates for different props, but it's important not to limit yourself to how others have accomplished the same goal. If you put your time, effort and love into your craft, you can manage with even the most limited skills and funds! It's a waste to give up on something before you've even tried just because it looks too difficult! Mistakes can only add to your experience and make you a better prop-maker in the future ^^

Materials

Lately you can purchase quite a few essentials without setting foot in a hardware store. The 100 yen shop has quite a lot of what you need. Just don't assume that 100 yen is the best price you can get. You can find great deals in the hardware store too, especially if you purchase in bulk or look for small items like sandpaper and glue. Check both kinds of shops before making any purchases to save the most money on your props.

Aim

When if comes to props and fake weapons, all sorts of quality and skill levels are represented at any given event. Some Layers produce props for a living or buy them professionally-made. Others have years of experience to draw on. What's most important isn't how your props compare to those of others, but whether you, personally, are satisfied with your work. The first step in becoming skilled at anything is to give it a try.

So, how about it?

The Essentials: Prop-Making Tools

The old adage "you get what you pay for" often applies to construction materials. Cheaper materials may yeild less stellar results than more expensive ones, especially when it comes to tools which you'll very likely be using often over a long period of time. There are plenty of other items used in building more elaborate props too ~ but here we're working on the basics. So without further ado ~ a list of the most basic items in their very cheapest incarnations:


Glue
There are quite a few different kinds of glue ~ glue for wood, glue for polystyrene, glue for paper, glue for rubber, etc. For most basic construction projects, we recommend the type for polystyrene. If you plan to work with faux leather, enamel, rarissa or lionboard, you'll get the best results with G17 glue (it's a bit lighter).

A Cutter Knife

With a cutter knife you can create clean curves and make short work of pretty much every light craft material but polystyrene.


A Glue Gun
This tool melts sticks of plastic glue and has plenty of uses beyond adhesive application. It's great for adding detail, decoration and writing to just about anything you might need to make.


A Polystyrene Cutter
A polystyrene cutter will heat up to cut polystyrene more cleanly. You should be able to find one at the 100 yen shop.


Acrylic Paint
This paint works great on polystyrene, styrofoam and laquer so it's really convenient to have. It won't run when wet and won't rub off on your costume either.


Putty
Useful in crafting blades or other items that require distinct ridges or corners. Unmixed types are also available, but the type shown here is pre-mixed. It's ready to use and doesn't have much of a distinct smell.


Spray Paint
Convenient if you want to apply one basic color to a large area in a short time. Just be careful not to spray other things and to use it in a well-ventilated area. The fumes can be dangerous.


Sandpaper
This is useful for smoothing edges on wood and polystyrene. It's a bit of a pain to finish pieces by sanding, but if you do, they'll have a clean, finished look and feel.

Simple Prop Tutorials Included in This Feature
-spear
-sword
-Basara weapon 1 and 2
-Vocaloid headset 1 and 2
-decorative buttons

*cos-a vol. 1

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

tutorial for Shuriken made of paper:

Spoiler:

Step 1) Materials
--2 Squares of Paper
--Scissors (Optional)
--Ruler (Very Optional)

The paper can be pretty much anything. I used cardstock for this tutorial, actually the first time I’ve tried cardstock. I’ve made many with regular paper. I normal sheet of 8.5”x11” paper will make a shuriken pretty much the perfect size. If you’re ever bored, making mini ones out of post it notes is a fun way to pass time. Each finished Shuriken requires two squares of paper.
I only used the ruler to make really tight folds, you don’t actually have to measure anything XD

Step 2) Prepping the Paper
The paper needs to be square to do this. If you’re using a standard sized sheet of paper you can fold it and cut the strip at the bottom off to make a square.
If you have a square sheet or origami paper or the like you should be just fine.

Step 3) Making the First Half

Fold the paper in half
Then fold each side in towards the center
Then fold it in half on the same seam it was originally folded in half on.

Step 4) Finish the First Half

Put the paper to that the open side of the fold is facing your right. Take the TOP LEFT corner and fold it down towards the right side

It’s important that you keep track of which way you do the first one because the second half must be the opposite.

Flip the strip and do the other end in the opposite direction

This is kind of hard to describe. Hold the paper horizontally and fold the larger end of the strip at an angle that lines up with the previous corner folds. Sorry if it doesnt make much sense >_<

Do the same with the other end

Fold the ends that are hanging
This isn’t crucial; it’s for later and may make more sense later on if you’re not getting it now. You’re just creating a crease the ends do not have to stay down against the main body.

Step 5: Make and Finish the Second half
Repeat Steps to and 3 with a new sheet of paper.

When it comes to folding down the corners for step 4, if you followed directions you had the open side of the fold on the right and too the top left corner and folded it down to right. For this one, keep the open side of the fold on the right but take the TOP RIGHT corner and fold it down to the left. This will create a piece opposite the original so they will join together.

The rest of the folds follow the same as the first. Of course they’re probably opposite but you shouldn’t have to think about that at all.

Step 6: Putting Them Together

Set them together so the ends poke out over each other

This part all sort of happens naturally. The ends should all tuck into each other, much like the way they you fold the flaps of a box so it doesn’t open.

If you make it with paper you can get much tighter creases so it’ll look a little neater and a little smoother.

Hopefully you’ve made it through without to much trouble. If you keep practicing you should be able to make them in no time at all. Have fun and watch out for people’s eyes >_0

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

temari's fan!

Spoiler:

Materials:

1 bottle of Tulip Soft Fabric Paint in the Glacier White color
1 bottle of Tulip Soft Fabric Paint in the Azalea color *other purple colors can be preferenced to your needs too*
LOADS of 1" foam brushes *michaels had a sale so I got 15 =3*
1 fan *regardless of size*
A roll of masking tape
A small paint brush
A pencil
NEWSPAPER

1) Start by laying out your fan. Use your masking tape to cover EVERYTHING single part of the black frame that's visible. Even the part that's next to the fan. Trust me, you'll be thankful for this later on.

2) Put a couple of layers of newspaper down on your area and put your fan on top. Painting time. ^^ You can squirt the paint in a cup or whatever to get paint from or just squirt it directly onto the fan and paint from there.

Newspaper=Good. This fan was fabric, not cardboard so the paint seeped through on mine.

3) Now just start painting down with your white paint and foam brushes. It's okay to use more than one brush for every layer.

4) Once your completely cover the fan with two layers, place a fan next to it and dry it.

5) Continue adding this process until the whiteness is at your satisfaction...ness. Basically at the point where you can't see the previous background anymore. This is where you can pull off your tape and unveil your success. =3

6) Yank outcher pencil. You'll want to use something circular *I used a can of Raid bug spray, but if you're doing a large fan, a margerine tub will do fine* to trace your stars. If you're like me, you'll want to measure from the end of the fabric/board to the middle where you place your circles and count an even number of spokes from the outside.

7) Now, after all are traced, pull out that bottle of purple paint and your small paintbrush.

8) CAREFULLY, paint in your circles. You can do two layers on this to make sure it's not too lightly painted.

9) Let your circlies dry. x3

And voila! How easy was that? =]

This goes the same for large fans and big fans. If you're using a larger fan, you'll definitely need 2-3 bottles of the white fabric paint. One bottle of the purple paint should do fine because this is the second time I'm using this bottle.

ALL of these items can be found at Michaels. As for the fan, you can buy one off of ebay or Chinatown. You should be able to find a Chinatown somewhere in your state. If you're outta luck, I can only suggest ebay (which is much more expensive. the ones there are around $30 and i got my big one for $10. =D)

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

Asuma and Shikamaru's chakra knives (is that the correct term? =<)

Spoiler:

matrials you'll need: cardboard , hotglue ,comic backs (ceral box board is a fair sub for backs) and paints

tools you'll need: glue gun, exacoe knives and paint brushs.

1) Using the above templets cut two of shape A and one of shape B
form comic backs

2) Agian using shape A cut out four pieces from cardboard

3) Hotglue togather the pieces of cardboard in to a pair of blocks

4) Cut way a wedge from the inner side of the blade on each block

5) Hotglue the layers of comicbacks and cardbaord blocks togather as seen here, just make sure the figer holes line up

6) Glue fill all of the flat edges inclueding inside edges of the figer holes
(see my katana tutorail for detials on filling if you don't already know what it is)

7) Again like the katana tutorail put on a glue edge

8) Paint it
(i prefar to use metallic acrlic craft paints)

thats it hope this helped ya and if you has questions than just comment =3

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

Zabuza's sword of foam?!

Spoiler:

First of all, my sword is not complete yet. But I do know the steps to complete it. So this one is for all the awesome Zabuza cosplayers out there who want awesome swords.

Materials:
Pink housing foam (Choose your own thickness)
Sanding block
80-grit and 200-grit sandpaper
Something to rough cut the foam with (Hot-knives work very well)
One bottle Gresso Canvas Primer
One foam Paint brush
Super-glue
Bondo (Enough to cover the whole sword, so the big can)
1" round PVC piping (5' or so, no less)
3 PVC piping connectors (2" long x 1"round fit)
1 PVC piping end-cap (1" round fit)
PVC primer and cement
Your Choice of spray paint color finishes


First off, pink housing foam is the best material to use (Unless you find something better, I haven't yet). Buy Either a 2" thick or 3/4" thick piece of it from your local Home Depot, or Lowes if you're lucky. The sheet is going to be way too big, that's ok. You'll only need a piece about 5' long and 12" wide. Have fun with the rest of it. To rough cut the sword, cut out a piece of foam slightly larger than the width (12") and slightly longer then the length (~5'). Sand until it is basically rectangular in shape. Leave some overhang for mistakes, you will make them.

On this block, draw a line 2(two) inches in from the edge, extending towards wich ever end is going to be the tip of your sword. If you have an old record, use this to sketch out the curve at the end of the sword. The blade part tapers (sp?) off, so you wont make the full round of the record. Go about 1/8 or a little more around the record when tracing and then extend your line to the edge of the block. The actual sword does this too, so no worries about accuracy . Repeat on reverse side of block. Then draw a line down the side edge of the block, so you will have a guide for the blade edge.

After you are satisfied with your lines being straight and the end looking like the curve you want it to be, rough cut the blade with a hot-knife. These can be found at any local craft store. I've never been into one that didn't have them. They cost around $10. Not to bad for what it'll do. After you've rough cut (and it doesn't have to be perfect, that's what sandpaper is for) the blade edge and curve, use the 80-grit sandpaper to finish the edge. Be careful not to take too much off, you can't put it back on later. The hole in the sword (towards the top) is about 7-8" round. Use a compass or something to mark out the circle where you think it should go, and cut it out. As for the chunk that is taken out of the bottom of the blade, it's about the same size. Only it is just half a circle instead of a full one. Also, use the 80-grit to sand down both sides of the foam block. This will remove the shiny plastic coating and ready it for prepping. After you've used your 80-grit, move onto the 200-grit paper. Sand until smooth.

For the side pieces (the 1/4 spheres) you can use a 6" round styrofoam ball and cut it to a 1/4 sphere. The guard, simply cut it bigger than the area around the blade and the side pieces by over 1/4". Then sand it down until it is 1/4" away from the blade and side pieces all the way round. Glue together with super glue. The sides should be in the middle of the total width of the sword (including the blade).

Onto the Primer: Use your brush and apply a generous coat to each side and edge. Remember to get the blade also. After it dries once, apply a second coat to the entire sword. This will serve to seal the foam so it doesn't melt when painted or have any other problems. It also helps build a layer that can take more abuse then just the foam. Wait a day to let it all thuroughly dry.

While you wait for that to fully dry, let's move onto the handle. Your PVC pipe will be cut into 4 pieces, the longest of which will end up inside your sword as far as it will go. Cut 3 pieces the same length (about 1' or so long). Then, use your PVC primer on the ends of the pipe. Next, use the PVC cement on the ends (once the primer dries) and very, VERY, VERY quickly shove the ends into the connectors. I am not kidding when I say that cement dries in seconds.Oce you have the three pieces assembled, remember to use your end cap on one of the ends, use the rest of the pipe, make that about 2' long, and attach that to the other end. Here's where it can get messy: You have to shove or twist the PVC pipe into your blade. I would suggest making an edge on the pipes end to help the proccess move smoother. Once it is in to the point where you first connector is touching your guard, you're good to go.

Bondo: Is pretty easy to work with, though it dries rather quickly. So only use small batches when working with it. Otherwise you'll end up with a huge ball of rock hard useless-ness. Coat the entire blade, side pieces and guard included, in bondo. Try to get it as even as possible to avoid excess sanding. Once it dires, which should only take about an hour at the most, sand this down with the 200-grit sand paper.

You now have a Zabuza cosplay sword that will not only not suck and look retarded, but it will take a beating too. But not like steel or any real metal. Beware trying to mock fight with this. Bondo is strong, but will break. Paint your sword any color you choose (I suggest using a beaten steel spray paint finish for the sowrd itself and a lighter silver for the blade's edge). Spray the connectors brown, and wrap blue cloth or leather around the sunken parts of the handle for grip.

Hope that helped y'all! Please comment your questions =3

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

omg this is actually okay as far as MODS go?! -happiest day of my life-

remember, I'm only 13 so if these are a bit confusing or aren't what you expected I'm very very sorry >_<

Akatsuki Clouds:

Spoiler:

Materials:
- heat n'bond (found with interfacing at the fabric store)
- white and red fabrics
- pencil and paper
- ironing board and iron
- scissors
- red and white thread
- sewing machine

1) On a blank peice of paper, draw out your cloud. Remember that when your cloud is done, it will be the MIRROR of what you are drawing, so try drawing it backwards if your picky with accuracy

2) Heat n'Bond has a bumpy side (glue) and smooth side (paper) so on the smooth side, put your drawing underneath the heat n'bond and trace out the clouds (the inside red part should be a bit more detailed and smaller than the outside white part, you should trace both parts out seperately)

3) cut out the heat n'bond in a rectangle around the clouds and place the cuts on the correct peice of colored fabric glue side down (small and details = red, larger simpler one = white)

4) iron the heat and bond to the fabric peices, careful cuz if you iron the glue side accidentally its a PAIN to get off your iron ;D

5) use your scissors to cut out the cloud shapes from the fabric with the heat n'bond attached

6) Peel the paper off the red peice BUT NOT THE WHITE!!! We need that later on ;D

7) With the glue side down, place the red shape on top of the white shape which should have the paper side down so the white makes an outline on the red

8) iron the red shape to the white

9) Although optional I like to do a topstitch ontop of the edges to keep the fabric from peeling. You might need to clean your needle off every once in a while if glue gets on it... (use your sewing machine for this)

10) now you can peel the rest of that pesky paper off =D

11) place your cloud where you want on your coat, bag, tee shirt etc. and iron it

12) again you might want to do a topstitch around the edge to keep it from peeling...

13) congrats you have made Akatsuki clouds =D questions, comments etc. please comment =3

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

ahh now for the ANBU's arm guards =3

Spoiler:

Materials:
a few sheets of .020 styrene plastic (ebay, amazon)**
a few sheets of craft foam (michaels, walmart, anywhere.. any color is fine)
about a yard of silver metallic vinyl fabric (jo-anns, michaels, easy to find around halloween)
elmers glue or glue stick
hot glue gun
velcro tape
ruler
pencil
paper
scissors


**Note: If you cannot get .020 styrene you can use craft foam for that as well.


Step one: trace out the size and shape of the arm guard on normal paper first. i used a plain rectangular shape, but if you'd like some curves to it go ahead. cut out the paper and use this as your pattern. the ANBU arm guards go from the wrist to the elbow and sometimes a bit further, keep that in mind.

Step two: trace out the pattern twice on the styrene and cut them out.

Step three: place the styrene shape on the backside of the vinyl and follow this diagram: http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/901...utthevinyl.png
cut out the vinyl leaving some space on the outsides

step four: place the styrene plate on the backside of the vinyl and glue it down lightly with elmers or a glue stick. then put hot glue on the edges of the vinyl and fold them over onto the back of your arm plate. main body of the arm guard is finished

step five: figure out the size of your arm and trace out two straps (small and big) for each arm guard in the craft foam.

step six: cut out vinyl for the arm straps just like the way you did for the arm plates. glue lightly and then hot glue edges as before. straps are now finished

step six: attach a little square of velcro (the spikey side) to either end of the straps (top side of the straps!! important!!) and then attach two lines of the gentle side of the velcro at appropriate places across the arm guards. this makes it slightly adjustable in case your arm grows a bit.



yay done!

the way i figured this out was based on the automail guide i used to make automail a year ago (amethys-angel.com). Credit to them for the general idea

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

okay ANBU mask tutorial =3

Spoiler:

Materials You Will Need:
1. Plastic Mask of a full human face.
such as this
2. At least 2 packages of White Crayola Model Magic. (Molding Clay-ish)
3. Black Elastic Band 1/2 inch wide. (At least 15 inches long)
4. Super Glue.
5. A rolling pin. (Any kind will do but wood seems to work best)

All of the above items can be purchased at your neighborhood Hobby Lobby.

Steps:

1. Lay out all of your materials in front of you. C:

2. Take the white molding substance out of the TWO packages of Crayola Model Magic and form both rectangles into ONE big ball.

3. Find a clean flat surface and lightly apply pressure to the ball. Press the ball down until it is flat enough to roll.

4. Roll the clay until it is about one centimeter thick or until the clay "sheet" is large enough to fit completely over the mask.

5. Place the clay "sheet" over the mask (make sure that the clay covers the entire front part of the mask) and lightly press/stretch the material to give a seamless appearance to the mask.

It should looks something like this:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...skgroup007.jpg

Note: I stretched the edges of the clay to cover the inner edge of the mask.

Note: This is a very forgiving type of molding clay but if you accidentally scratch or press your hand into the material before it dries it will leave an unflattering mark.

This took me a few times to get it right so please don't get discouraged if you don't get it on the first try.
6. GENTLY poke/push around the eye area to show the mask's eye holes.

7. IMPORTANT: Pull/Cut off the excess molding clay that is jutting out from the back of the mask.

8. Take the excess clay that you pulled off from the back of the mask and make two small balls from it. Then mold those balls into an ear shape.

9. DO NOT ATTACH THE EARS TO THE MASK YET. Now you should have three parts formed. (Throw any excess clay away because it will dry out and be unusable.)

Get up from wherever you are and leave the mask and ears alone. Go back to your workstation in a few hours.

10. Super glue the now dry items together.

11. Cut a piece of black elastic so that it is about fifteen inches long without being stretched. Super glue the elastic band to the inside of the mask.

12. Congratulations!!! You have made the base to your very own mask!



From here you can paint, sharpie, etc. to your mask to give it a true ANBU appeal.


I hope my tutorial helped you and I most certainly hope that you had a fun time expressing your artistic ability C=

FAQ:
The following are questions that I feel are important for mask alterations.

Spoiler:

Quote:
"Also, any tips about altering the eyes would be appreciated, but since I'm pretty sure in your ventures you didn't have to do anything like I plan to do for the eyes, I don't expect you to be able to give an answer n_n'."

Quote:
"Feel free to quote me as you like n_n. Also, what I had done is, because my eyes were TALLER than the eyes in my mask but much much thinner, is cut the shape based on a cardboard stencil I made and then taped the empty area (the area cut out of the mask) that I needed to be filled. It actually worked -really- well the first time, however, due to an unfortunate incident involving the chin I lost my ability to be any more patient with the project and I also -had- thought my model magic had become useless (as it had partially dried), but it seems if you microwave it for a short time it regains its past composure. As for cutting the eye after the model magic is applied, that just doesn't seem like it would work to me as I tried and all three of the cutting tools I tried ended up stretching and deforming the clay in ways that hurt the rest of the mask. Also I would like to place emphasis upon the fact that if you are forming (using their hands to smooth around the eyes or anywhere else) the clay, you should hold it from the inside of the mask, and not set any side of the mask onto any surface other than the inside of the mask. I say this because this is how I ended up having all my work waisted and ended up just deciding to go for something that suited -this particular project- better.

EDIT - If you are going to do the smaller eyes, I do recommend you don't use paper or cardboard. The clay sticks to it (or at least mine did), and with the paper you likely won't be able to get some of your clay back (with the cardboard it is easier as generally it is less flimsy). I would recommend doing as I did and use repeated layers of masking tape, or perhaps try wax paper (although I've yet to test this myself). I'm thinking of trying a few different methods for forming the eyes, just to simplify it and not land others up in a vat of confusion like I was *laughs*. Oh, if you only knew half the silly things I tried."

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

ANBU vest for you people with sewing skillz

Spoiler:

materials:
- reference image
- white or grey broadcloth (im a size M and 2 meters worked fine for me C=)
- quilt batting (1.5-2 meters see above)
- 2 white or grey plastic buckles
- sewing machine + scissors

1) Start with your measurements. It'd be a good idea to get help from a friend =3 go put on a well-fitting shirt and use that for a semi-reference
a) bottom of the vest: measure from one seam on the shirt to the next and add 3 inches to it (or more depeding on hom fitted you want it)
b) from bottom to bottom of the arm hole: measure from your waist to the seam under your arm
c) across the chest: measure across your chest lol

2) Using these measurements, draw the shape on a peice of newspaper and add about an inch all around for seam allowance. Cut it out, play and fumble around with your placement and measurements then transfer to your fabric and cut out four peices

3) take two ofthe peices and sew together the top and sides, but leave the bottom open. Repeat with the other two peices and turn both finished peices inside-out

4) cut two peices of batting to the same shape as your front and back peices, only slightly smaller to fit. Slip it inside and stitch up the bottom seam

5) stitch the front and back peices together but do not sew together the armholes or the top (for where your neck goes)

6) cut the broadcloth into 4 peices with the diameter of 3" by the measurements you used in A (step 1). Take two of the peices and sew the two long ends together, then turn them inside out. Cut another 2-4 peices of batting slightly smaller than the first 4 and slip 1-2 into the inside of the original 4 so that it forms the thick bottom 'ring' stitch the short sides together.

7) sew the 'ring' onto your vest. Make sure to have the 'right sides' be on the correct sides when your finished and that your seams line up. Pinning it into place with sewing pins helps A LOT

8) use your sewing machine to sew in the decoritive lines in the vest, remember that both sides are identical but be sure not to sew both layers together!

9) To make the straps, put on your vest. Get a friend, family member etc. to measure your shoulder from the top corner to the back corner of the vest and add about 2 inches. Cut 4 peices (the measurement you just took +1 inch for seam allowance). Sew two of the peices together with the batting inside etc. etc. and attach the buckes to one end. Repeat for the 2nd strap

10) sew the straps onto the back of the vest so that you form a square with the stitching. (this might not make sense to new sewers)

11) to the front of the vest attach the other half of the buckle. Then create a neat square (and by neat I mean well finishe so the edges look nice) Stitch the bottoms and sides to the front peice of the vest over the top of the buckle. Forming a sort of pocket XD. This not only hides the buckle, but also creates the square to match the back of the vest...

12) test it out! straps are now workable =3

13) all you have to do now is add teh squares to the sides of the vest. I'm not sure what they are, what they are there for and some cosplayers dont even put them on at all but this is how I made them:
- take a peice of broadcloth about 1" by 3" give or take depending on how long you want it to be
- sew it together so that you get a loop (like when you loop tape to stick on itself) then sew it onto the vest either with a machine or by hand
- Look at you reference for placement

congrats, you now have an ANBU vest =3 remember you should probably try a few times before making the finished product, its good practice and it will turn out way nicer after you figure out all the kinks C=

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

Deidara's clay birds =3 these things are so cool!


REMEMBER: ALWAYS BE CAREFUL WHEN WORKING WITH HEAT!!!!!!!

Spoiler:

materials:
- Super Sculpey clay
- black and white acrylic paints
- scissors
- glaze (optional)
- a pin
- a paintbrush
- a toothpick
- a marker (to be used as a rolling pin)
- easy access to an oven ;D

1) knead the clay and roll it into a ball in the palm of your hand

2) mold into an egg shape and pinch a bottom peice of the clay to make the tail

3) make another (smaller) sphere for the head and merge it with the body, cover the seams up and smoothen the so its all one peice

4) pinch the head until you get a desired head and beak shape

5) using scissors cut 4 evenly spaced slits into the tail

6) trim and fix the tail so that it flares out a bit

7) using the marker, roll out a slab of clay until its thin and flat

8) using the scissors cut out two equal sized half circles (these will be the wings)

9) like the tail, cut into the clay to create feathers

10) add the wings tothe body and smoothen the seams at the front

11) roll out another slab of clay this time cut out a long rectangle and add abunch of snips to one side

12) roll the rectangle around the birds neck, cutting off any leftover length

13) smoothen, seam and style the feathers

14) to start the feet, make two shapes that kinda look like upside down T's that get larger towads the top

15) use the scissors one last time to cut into the feet and make toes

16) add the feet to the body and smoothen the seams

17) using the head of the sewing pin (the ball part) poke in two eyes

18) before baking, put some aluminum foil in front of the bird so it doesnt fall over, you dont want it falling over in the oven and baking a distorted beak ;DDD

19) set the oven to 130 degrees C (275 degrees F)

20) place the bird on a metal cookie sheet and bake the bird for 15 minutes (cooking class anyone?!)

21) after 15 mins, take out the bird and let it cool. Its okay if its a little burnt, thats why we're painitng it!

22) paint the bird completely white (this may take several coats) and usng a toothpick, paint the inside of the eyes black. Adding a glaze finish is optional but nice since it'll keep the paint from getting dirty or scratched)

congrats you now has an amazing Deidara clay bird for your cosplay!

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

Dosu Kinuta... remember him? Yeah that awesome sound amp... want your own? click spoiler >D jk

please please PLEASE be careful when working with powertools!!!

Spoiler:

This is how I made my Dosu Kinuta sound amplifier.
I will note that there is other ways to make this but hopefully the way I did it could be replicated or give others some ideas on how to make this.

First I purchased a common water jug for $2.50 and removed the cover and tap. (note: the thicker the plastic the better, otherwise it will crack and/or bust when drilling)

I then removed part of the top lip, drilled holes in the design from the show, and removed the center of the bottom (enough to fit my forearm)

Paint (Note: I chose a flat grey textured paint, so that when a picture is taken of it with flash it doesn't reflect light back, and thus ruin the picture)

I then put a piece of black craft foam inside and adhered it over the area where the holes are at to give the illusion that holes are deeper and then you cant see your arm while you have it on.

I then finished off by inserting some fabric and poly fill pillow fiber into the center to give a snug fit.
All done Hooray!!!!

There you go, I hope this helps somebody.

EDIT: just noticed that I forgot a step =0
I forgot to do the clamps on the side and the crack marks
These can be simply drawn on with a permanent marker or painted on.

I have drawn the clamps on and am no deciding if I want to do the cracks or not... hmmm

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

Naruto Shinobi Headbands

Spoiler:

Okay, you may or may not have noticed that some headbands are easier to come by than others. Iwagakure isn't even made at all. At any rate, a headband costs you at least $10 storebought, but I was able to make all of this for about $6(because I bought too much freakin' material, but I didn't know at that point. I was a stupid n00b.) I was directed to a half-assed online tutorial on MasseyForum or something, with half the pics missing, and was a cosplaying n00b, but I'm glad some pics were missing, because I ingeniously improved their tutorial- which no longer exists anyway. I tried to show someone yesterday, but the site is gone...

At any rate, in the tutorial, I will be referring to the Iwagakure 'slashed' headband I made. But you can make any headband with this tutorial- just make sure you leave out the slashing if you aren't cosplaying as a missing-nin!!! But yeah, any symbol works- you could even make up your own if you're creative like that, and have slashing or none. All right, here goes... Any questions or anything you want explained better and more in depth, just post here!! I'm happy to explain or elaborate more on anything!!


You start with a soda can. Yeah, a soda can. Make sure it's clean and had light colored soda inside. Cut off the top and bottom, then cut it long ways, so that you're able to take it and roll it out into one big strip. Outline the size and shape you want your headband to have(helps to have a storebought headband to trace- I used my brother's Suna one as reference) on a piece of paper. Place it on the strip of metal, and take a boxcutter and cut along the lines that you drew on the paper, cutting through the paper, and metal can underneath. Make sure that the shape on the paper is a bit bigger than your headband should be, in case you make mistakes, or need to trim edges.

So, you have the general shape on the nice shiny metallic back(inside) of the old soda can. Now what about the symbol?... You can actually draw on the metal with pencil, which helps when trying to get the symbol perfect. Once it is, take the boxcutter, and cut again, but this time, do so very slowly and lightly, so that you make a deep gash in the metal, but don't cut all the way through- DO NOT CUT ALL THE WAY THROUGH FOR THE SYMBOL. This takes a while- because you're literally scratching away at the metal, you have to keep going over the same part, smoothing it out for visual appeal, but not cutting through. Don't worry, it's worth it later. After you have a nicely smoothed out design etched into the metal, get some black acrylic paint, and a really small tipped paint brush, and paint into the indentation you made for the symbol. (All the store-bought headbands have this black paint effect). Then take your boxcutter again, and do that same slow, tedious etching for the slashing across the symbol- but when you get near where you've painted, be careful. You want it to look like it messed up the symbol a bit, but don't destroy you work!! If you want, you can sketch out the slashing too beforehand- I did. For the slashing, once etched in, add a tiny bit of paint, so little that it almost blends into the metal. It makes the slashing noticeable, but not stupid looking.

Buy a shiny piece of black cloth, long enough to fit around your head with a bit of excess, and wide enough so that you can fold it over three times equally, and still have yoour metal piece fit nicely on it with excess on top and bottom(like Naruto headbands look...). Also buy some brass fasteners- if you can find them in metal color, great!! I couldn't, so had to buy brass, and paint them as close as I could to the metal headband color. But they do come in metal- my sister's teacher had a whole pack 2 weeks before... Ugh!!!

You've seen how in the upper and lower corners of Naruto headbands, as well as at the center area of each side, there's a little round nail or screw like thing, probably used for attachment, right? Well, draw little circles on your headband in the corners, and far centers, where those round metal pieces should be. Measure for eveness. Then, make small cuts -through the metal this time- where you've drawn those circles- BUT DON'T CUT TO THE EGDE OF THE METAL, OR YOUR HEADBAND WON'T HOLD ON TO THE CLOTH AND WILL FALL OFF! Take the bottoms of those metal or brass fasteners, cut them a little shorter, and shove the prongs 1 through each of those 6 cuts you made, so that the round part holds nicely to the front of your headband. If your cloth is folded into 3 equal parts, so that the part without an edge is facing forward, and the 1st fold is underneath it, the 3rd fold over that one in the back(helps with aesthetics), cut six holes to 2 layers of the cloth, and shove the prongs of the fasteners through. Fold them over, and your metal is now attached to the cloth, without glue, and won't come off. The last piece of cloth fold, that you didn't stick them through, is to protect your head in case those metal prongs ram into your skin- ha, now they can't! Sew the 3 pieces of cloth along their entire tops and along their entire bottom, to keep things together- and you can sew at the back edges that will tie around you too if you'd like. I did because I cut that in a triangle sort of shape, because my brother's headband was like that where it tied off.

Anyway, you have your headband!!! Hope that at least on that account I was able to help!!

[W U B Z]

Originally Posted by 2hyper4u AKA Sloth

Deidara's clay birds =3 these things are so cool!


REMEMBER: ALWAYS BE CAREFUL WHEN WORKING WITH HEAT!!!!!!!

Spoiler:

materials:
- Super Sculpey clay
- black and white acrylic paints
- scissors
- glaze (optional)
- a pin
- a paintbrush
- a toothpick
- a marker (to be used as a rolling pin)
- easy access to an oven ;D

1) knead the clay and roll it into a ball in the palm of your hand

2) mold into an egg shape and pinch a bottom peice of the clay to make the tail

3) make another (smaller) sphere for the head and merge it with the body, cover the seams up and smoothen the so its all one peice

4) pinch the head until you get a desired head and beak shape

5) using scissors cut 4 evenly spaced slits into the tail

6) trim and fix the tail so that it flares out a bit

7) using the marker, roll out a slab of clay until its thin and flat

8) using the scissors cut out two equal sized half circles (these will be the wings)

9) like the tail, cut into the clay to create feathers

10) add the wings tothe body and smoothen the seams at the front

11) roll out another slab of clay this time cut out a long rectangle and add abunch of snips to one side

12) roll the rectangle around the birds neck, cutting off any leftover length

13) smoothen, seam and style the feathers

14) to start the feet, make two shapes that kinda look like upside down T's that get larger towads the top

15) use the scissors one last time to cut into the feet and make toes

16) add the feet to the body and smoothen the seams

17) using the head of the sewing pin (the ball part) poke in two eyes

18) before baking, put some aluminum foil in front of the bird so it doesnt fall over, you dont want it falling over in the oven and baking a distorted beak ;DDD

19) set the oven to 130 degrees C (275 degrees F)

20) place the bird on a metal cookie sheet and bake the bird for 15 minutes (cooking class anyone?!)

21) after 15 mins, take out the bird and let it cool. Its okay if its a little burnt, thats why we're painitng it!

22) paint the bird completely white (this may take several coats) and usng a toothpick, paint the inside of the eyes black. Adding a glaze finish is optional but nice since it'll keep the paint from getting dirty or scratched)

congrats you now has an amazing Deidara clay bird for your cosplay!

Add some dynamite and you get C0

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

@WUBZ: lolwut? X3

Gaara's Gourd!!

Spoiler:

1) first thing I did was buy a beach ball and a larger ball, then I taped them together. The two balls were taped from the from the top of the small ball and curved in the center, then down the large ball all the way to the bottom on multiple sides. To give strength to the center I taped over and over again until I thought it was really strong...

2) Next I made a 'neck brace' out of newspaper. I wrapped a bunch of newspaper which I had cut into strips, then wrapped it around the neck of the gourd. I then paper mache-d the whole gourd

3) I then plastered the whole gourd, but that became a 'plaster disaster' and the plaster cracked. So I bought some plaster strips at Micheals and layered them multiple times...

4) for the gourd cork, I bought a styrofoam cone and cut the tip off of it, and got a styrofoam circle for the lid. For the "E"'s I made a stencil, The "E" stencil was very carefully measured. The second stencil was a rectangle it was for the thick black line. The outside of the stencil was the border for the thick black line.

5) the gourd was spray painted a tan-sand color and the stencils were traced on and painted. Gaara's gourd has 4 rectangles on it, so I had to trace two times in the front and two in the back. I also had to edit my lines before painting because it was hard to draw accurately on a circular object...

6) after finishing the rectangles I added the cork and the lid... the lid had to be held on by plaster then shaped. The cork was glued on and plaster was added around it to help hold it on. All painting had to be touched up. After everything was dry I drew on the cracks with a thin black paint marker.

7) lastly I made a harness with black fishing rope. I tied it so I had two loops on my back like a backpack. I then added the red sash around the waist of the gourd. I had to wrap it and hold it on with safety pins in multiple areas. This took around two weeks from start to finish, but it really depends on how hard you work on it X3

hope this helped!! taken from Ryoko-and-Yami from DeviantArt, love ya girl! XD

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

Haku's bun covers X3

Spoiler:

This is the simplest way to do the bun. it looks decent and is super cheap!

-cloth
-very small piece of cloth.
-hair tie
-glue gun
-string (optional)
-scissors

1. Get a piece of cloth (in whatever color you need) and cut it into a cirle to hold your hair/wig.

2. Get a pair of scissors and cut holes around the ends of the cloth. they should be about 1/2 inch apart. it dosent really matter. xD http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...untitled-2.jpg

3. get a hair tie. cut the hair tie in half so it's just one string. (cut off the metal part if it has one.) the hair tie should be new so it wonn't stretch out.

4. go over-under with the hair tie into the holes.

5. when they meet, get your glue gun and glue it together. hold them together and let it dry.

6. (this is optional) for extra support, i used a small rectangular piece of cloth and glued around the glued ends of the hair tie. wait for it to dry and voila! youre done.

for decorative touches you can used the string and after everything, you can over-under it into the holes where the hair tie is.

a different tutorial by temari-chan-yay on Cosplay.com:

Spoiler:

Materials:
A piece of cloth (white) that is big enough to hold your hiar err..wig hair.
A piece of green string
A very thin wire
Green beads (Or colors if you want)
Scissors (Though I prefer to use a sharp cloth knife.)
A round object (I prefer to use a huge can that's circle)
A pencil or a washable marker (so that you can wash it off later)
A thin white string (So you can tighten your bun XD)
Green thread

Thats about it.
Now lets start the Tutorial.

1. Gather your materials XD

2. Take the cloth and lay it FLAT on a table.

3. Take the Can or circular object and place it ontop of the cloth.

4. Lightly trace around the can or circular object with your pencil or marker.

5. Take your scissors or knife and CAREFULLY cute along the mark you made.

6. Wash your cloth. (Make sure you don't shrink it XD I did on my first try)

7. Make sure it is dry before you continue.

8. Now, As for the green string please make sure it is the thick kind so you can put the thin wire through it.

9. CAREFULLY put the thin wire through the green string.

10. Take the cloth and make thin strip cute along the edges (Make sure that they are about 1/2-1 cm away from the edge of the cloth and about 1/2 cm apart.)

11. Take the white string and thread it through the strips you just made.

12. Make sure that you cna tie and retie the string when you put the bun cover on your bun. (I suggest you try it)

13. Now its time to decorate the green string. Take your beads and put them on the green string in any order you want.

14. Tie the green thread on it to make the beads stay.

15. When you put the beads on make sure that they are going to be in the loop that you make not on the ends.

(From this point on its mainly putting on the bun cover)

16. Put on the cloth and white string you made earlier and tie the string in a small bow UNDER the bun cover.

17. Take the green string (with the green wire in it) and make a big loop iwth it. Don't twist it.

18. Stick it through your hair before the bun cover. But make sure that it makes a loop on one side and come out on two on the other side. Also, make sure that, that side doesn't make a loop as well.

19. Smile because you're done!

I know that you're reading this and thinking that it doesn't work but I have made one in this order and it came out great for my friend's cosplay. I will add pics as soon as I can! I hope this thread helped you out! Good luck.

[Uchias IVIonster]

verry helpfull thanks

[RAMENKING]

only 13? your awesome C=

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

@Uchias IVIonster: lol thanks! I hope they are, feel free to use these however you want ^^

@RAMENKING: XDDD hai~ I started cosplaying seriously around late last year and sometimes I love the props more than the costumes *looksaroundnervously*

[SageNaruto69]

Originally Posted by RAMENKING

only 13? your awesome C=

totally. im 13 too and cant do a thing.....

[2hyper4u AKA Sloth]

@sagenaruto: >//< thanks!! I bet you could if you put your mind to it ^^